26. Juni | 2016

Titanic, quel itinéraire!

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Une grande voie comme „Titanic“ se fait sur un coup de tête. Il ne faut pas trop y réfléchir en avance, on y va parce qu’on a eu une grande envie le soir avant, c’est tout!

Depuis que j’habite sur Grenoble, plein de gens m’ont conseillé d’aller grimper dans cette voie, la plus haute de Chartreuse. Pour mon copain Benoit, elle fait partie d’une de ses grands rêves et en plus c’est une voie de Mussato. Quoi de plus pour être motivé!

Réveil à six heures du matin, on est vendredi le 24 juin, une des journées des plus chaudes de l’année. Surement pas les conditions idéales car la paroi passe à l’ombre vers 15 heures. Mais bon, quand on est motivé on fait abstraction de tout.

La marche d’approche nous a déjà bien séchée mais ce n’étais rien comparé à ce qui nous attendait après. Je suis partie dans la première longuer…mon dieu, comme je me suis fait rouster dans ce 7a+! Une longueur qui déroute complètement et un rocher bien péteux. Bref, j’ai été tendue comme un string dès le début.

 

Le même jeux dans les 3 longueurs suivantes. Dans la plus facile et plus péteux, un 6c,  j’ai arraché une grosse prise et je me suis retrouvée dans la corde. Avec Benoit, on a subi le soleil rasant mais on a avancé quand même. Pour être honnête, je me suis dit après les six premiers longueurs que j’allais jamais monter la corde à haut. Cotations serrés, grimpe exigeantes et rocher moyen….aie, aie, aie.

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Benoit s’est régalé comme un dingue en second, à part les petits traversées…Pour moi qui étais en tête c’était un autre jeux. J’étais vraiment crispé sur ce rocher pas très solide de Chartreuse et je me suis battue dans des 7a’s comme dans un 8a. Mais vous savez quoi, j’ai kiffé! Plus on montais, plus j’ai familiarisé avec ce style et j’ai commencé à me sentir complètement à l’aise. Vers 14 heures on est arrivé au pied du premier 7b et à ce moment là, la paroi passait à l’ombre.

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J’ai continué à me battre, j’étais à fond et super concentré à chaque longueur. Toutes sauf une, sont passées à vue. J’ai prit une petite chute dans le 7c car la fissure du départ dans le crux a été bien mouillé. J’étais un peu dégouté, mais ma fois, c’est la nature. Je me sentais tellement dans mon élément et j’ai adoré de partir complètement à vue dans cette aventure de 450 mètres avec des longueurs bien soutenue. Tout ça avec mon chérie qui étais aux anges et qui a aussi donné le meilleur de lui même. Bonheur. Vivre le moment présent. A deux.

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On a pas eu le temps de faire les deux derniers 6b’s car la nuit a commencé gentiment à tomber et comme on a bien fait. On s’est retrouvé aux pied de la voie à 22:00. 12 heures de grimpe, à 24:00 on était dans un Kebab à Crolles, à mourir de soif et de faim. Heureux, éclaté et les pieds en feu.

Un immense merci une fois de plus au grand maitre Philippe Mussato pour l’ouverture de cette voie. Quel idée!!!!;-)

Merci Benoit d’avoir vécu une si belle aventure avec moi. Vive d’autres, vive la vie!

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What changed

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Since a couple of months I’m on a stable way of recovering of what happened end of February to me.

It’s crazy to feel how things changed. First and most important of all, I feel in shape again. II can’t say that I feel balanced, but my muscles are doing great, especially my heart. What’s still confusing is to see how much time it takes to the organs to reach their normal function again. But me and my body, we’re working on it!;-)

Second, I feel sooooo connected to climbing. I think that’s since years I haven’t been so psyched for that sport. I like the simplicity and complexity of it, being focused while trying a route, becoming one with the mouvements, feeling the connection with your partner and the people around you.

I climb 8b+ again which is (sorry for this expression) a fucking good feeling! But I’m mostly climbing multipich routes since a while. Since my big healthy problems I’m looking more than ever to the connection with my partner. And in long routes that feeling is stronger then anywhere else to me. While living this sport I’m looking for the strong connection between nature, partner and myself.

The expedition to Greenland I had planed this summer failed, but that’s ok. I was disappointed mostly because this connection between all the team members was obviously there. But instead I did plenty of fantastic multipitch routes in one of my favorite place of the world, the gorges of Verdon.

I did easy onces and also hard onces. I climbed whatever felt and looked good, I was in the flow. I felt how important climbing is to me and what I’m searching by doing it. Grades became so useless to me, the only thing I’m looking for is the challenge, braking throw my own limits, pushing again and…..LAUGHING! Hell, climbing is soooo much fun!

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In respect of my body

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I’m able to climb again and to push hard, I can run, I can spend the entire day outsides and feeling good after.

Those things has been a big part of my daily life for so long until the day when I became really sick by the end of February.

To be honest, the last three months hasn’t been easy at all but it turned out to become the most richest experience in my life so far.

Imagine, I’ve been an active person my hole life long and my identifie has been created mostly due to my climbing achievements, my big will, my talent to push hard and to my big confident in life.

By the end of February, my life has been directed by this strange thing that entered in my body. I survived, but since then I had to deal with a fragile body, which was completly new to me. I learned a lot, but I went through a lot of non-funny things and I lost my big joy of life and a lot of positiv energy.

Then the day arrived when I accepted all of this and since I feel mostly good. I also realized that this dark sides of my character are part of mine and I learned to be fine with that. It’s funny to see how much the mindset can add to your well being and how sweet life can be with a positive approach.

There are still some tuff lessons I have to go through. It’s really hard to find the connection with my body again. Sometimes I move and afterwards I have this strange feeling and I dont‘ know if it’s because I pushed to hard or because my body isn’t used to this anymore. I was really smooth with my body during all this time. I had completely to put away the athlete aspect which I’ve never done before in my life. I took some weight which was necessary to my body to recover as this fast, but this is also new to me and super strange.

At the moment I don’t have a high climbing level, at all. Yesterday it was the first time where I was able to fight really hard again. It was in a 8a+ route. You know, once you had a solid 8b+/8c level in your life, it’s not easy for the head to be motivated to fight really hard in a lower level. I imagine that this happens to all of us. But hey, I tried really hard and I pushed my personal limits. It was such a wonderful feeling. I felt so happy to do this again, fighting hard and then clipping the chain with this huge smile on my face.

It’s important to me to have this connection with my body and to feel this high energy, but’s its not all anymore.

Due to the experience I made this last months, I was able to see and to feel how I am, without this Nina-machina athlete aspect. I found out what’s important to me in life, what else makes me happy than moving and doing sports and what life has to offer.

I’m lucky to feel mostly good again and I’m really confident in life. It takes me wherever it has to, even if it’s tuff sometimes.

Love life…

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Life has gifted me again

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Well, where to start. I guess some of you are wondering what I’m doing and where I am right now.

I went through a crazy and hard time the last two week’s. I got a serious infection which costed me almost my life.

While my last trip to Turkey, a bacterium got his way into my body. Back home, I wasn’t considered at all about my infection. I was fully occupied to organise my trip back there for bolting this new line I saw. I did some bad and high falls while bouldering in a gym and then I started to become serious pain in my back.

I was suffering like never before in my life. In reality, the pain was not due to my fall, it was because the germ went his way into my blood and from there directly to my heart. I had some water in my lung, my liver was pumped with blood and then both of my kidneys started to be infected by the bacterium.

I went really bad, I reached the point of the delirium. I cried like I never cried before in my life because I was suffering so much. And still, I thought that I had a simple back injury like a lot of climbers after a bad fall.

During a week I had huge shivering attacks, high temperature and this growing pain in my back. Finally I made a blood test and after seeing the results, I had immediately to go to the hospital emergency.

At the time I arrived there, my kidneys were close to give up their functions.

During my stay at the hospital I went through a lot of examens for the heart, brain and all kind of infection tests. I was under antibiotics and a lot of morphine.

A week after I was able to quit hospital with the uncertain idea what kind of germ went into my body. The doctors at the CHU in Grenoble are excellent and they made all their possible, but they still have no idea how this all came together and what kind of germ it was.

The most important is that my heart is in a good healthy again and that I react positiv about the antibiotics. All my organs will recover and the infection is going lower and lower.

Now I need time. My body needs to rest, my mind needs a break. My life has always been crazy, but this event has been a little to much to me.

It’s kinda funny, because while climbing, I’m always conscious that life can stop from one moment to another due to a technical error or to an accident. I do accept to die in that way one day. But I was never thinking about a malady. And I will defenetly not die in that way, I’m probably to proud for that…

This was the strangest experience I ever made in live. My life changed from one week to another. And once more, life gifted me. Lucky bastard I am…

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Photo: Sam Challéat

Queen line

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A month ago I felt the strong desire to leave Europe and to travel, alone. I choosed to buy a one way ticket to Turkey because I feel good in this country. I’ve been there four times already and missed the warmth of this country.

I have a friend who lives in Adana, Mümin Karabas, so I went to visit him. Adana is close to the Syrian border, all felt super save. Adana is a crayz , crouwded and youg city. It was all the oposit about what I’ve seen in Turkey so far. We had to driveman hour to reach the cliffs, no walking. It’s all about driving, people are kind a lazy, they don’t see a physical effort as a well beeing for your body.

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I spent four days there. I learned something about this other Turkish culture, part of it was to watch the cartoon the bad cat « Kötü Kedi Şerafettin » in the cinema. In turkish language without subtitles, a good experience.

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After I left for Datça. I had to see this new paradise of sport climing and I had to see with my proper eyes where my best friend Mike Fuselier had his huge accident.

On the way to there I had my little problems with Pegagus airlines. When you’re stucked at airports and you have to spent hours at a place you didn’t choose, you start to think a lot. At this point I asked myself seriously why I absolutely travelled by myselfs. I felt bad, I was tired and I felt alone. I missed my friens so badly and I felt close to go back home.

Going threw this processus was not easy to me. I had so much time to think about me and the people surrounding me, about my recent situation of life and about the simple happyness.

For the last few months I was builiding my own place in Grenoble. Beeing creative in this way was really a rich thing to me and I felt fullefilled. I lost a lot of interests for climbing ; my mind was complety blown down by the results I got in the construction.

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I choosed to leave France because I had to find out how much climbing still meant to me. And for that I had to leave my friends, my family and my daily occupations. I wanted to find out if I just climb because I feel like I have to, or because I still love it.

I wanted to feel if I probably reached the moment when you wanna do something else, starting a new chapter in life. Probably without climbing.

My body also changed a lot over the last couple of months, my interest and prioritys as well. I have no problems to write this down. In my eyes, I reached everything I wanted in climbing. I’m really proud of the things climbing teached to me and about the riche experiences I made.

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I climbed in Adana, it was fun, but that’s it. Then I went to Datça, the new perle of Turkey. I arrived by bus, only with my small bag pack, on a Saturday afternoon. I arrived in the middle of the bazar market, what a great welcome. I felt that I arrived somewhere, that my heavy journey to reach Datça had a sense behind.

 

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The lovley Swiss family Nicolat und my Turkish friend Zorbey picked me up by scooter and we drove up to theyr peaceful campground.

It was freezy cold and dry, the nature was outstanding and wild, I felt in love with the place. I directly took a bike and did a ride up to the huge cave where Mike had his 20meter fall to the ground. I crossed tons of olive and alamond trees. I was alone, it was romantic and epic. When I reached the cave, I strange feeling went throw my venes. I imagined the accident, the big drama while he was laying on the ground and I was speecless. Today Mike still has some broken bones in his feets, but he’s alive, more than ever.

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We are lucky people. Mike is doing well because he always tried hard to reach his goals. He followed his dreams, he had a lot of positive energy and there was always a shining light at the end of the tunnel.

When you grew up in France or Switzerland or almost all around Europe, you can easely fullefille your dreams or follow your ambitions.

I learned, that in Turkey it’s kind of the opposite. Rules and laws can change from one day to the other. You can’t really construct something because you never know what will happens. Turkish people are lazy in the eyes of a Swiss. I don’t wanna do some analythics or to globalise, but I know now how hard it is for them to reach theyr dreams and to keep a good and positive energy.

Olivier and his wife went to Turkey three years ago. It has always been a dream of them to find a breathtaking cliff and to developpe a new climbing area around. They imported the way to do like they were used to in switzerland and they also had a lot of problems to built something. But they didn’t gave up and they bolted hunderts of new routes by the help of other route setters (a lot of them are french and Turkish). They built a beautiful place to stay, they created a little place paradise for climbers !

 

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My first three days I climbed like hell. I had tu fill up my manquo of climbing and it felt soooo good. The lines are really pure, longue and demanding. It’s all about tufa climbing, all kind of. I was impressed how properly the routes were bolted, how save and accessible the spot is. Big up to the route setters .

 

After three days of lcimbing I asked myself again if this still is making sens to me. On my fourth day I motivated my friend Mike from Switzerland and Zorbey to have a look on a new huge cave. It tooks us several hours to make our way up there throw bousehs, trees and sharp plants.

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I was speecless….I was on the bottom of a huge 150 meter high arch. Pretty, pure, breathtaking.

In the middle of the cave, there is THE line… the line I was always looking for. The queen line…

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In two weeks I will go back to Datça with the luggage full of gear and together with Zorbey we will try to bolt this multipitch route. Ground up.

 

You see, my planlass journey to Turkey brang me to this line. Probably the moment to stop climbing is not here, but putting my own energy and soul in a future line, is defently here.

All the procesuss I went threw the last months makes sens now. I’m looking for more then just the physical effort of climbing. I wanna bold, I wanna create, I wanna put my soul into something which will stays there. And I wanna create something which is accessible to other people. I wanna give, the chapter of taking is over. Let’s move on.

Love life… 😉

 

 

Le pouvoir de la création

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Comme vous le savez un peu tous, j’ai été à fond dans des travaux ces derniers trois mois. Ce printemps je me suis acheté un petit studio sous les combles dans le centre ville de Grenoble. Ca a toujours été mon rêve de vivre dans une petite tour de princesse et de pouvoir me promener sur les toits la nuit.

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Il y a deux jours j’ai été au point de pouvoir poser mon matelas dedans. Même s’il y a encore mille choses à faire dans ce studio, je peux y vivre en mode gitane.

Là je suis en Suisse dans la belle maison en bois de ma mère et je regarde les choses comment ils sont fait d’un autre point de vue. Je me demande souvent pourquoi la construction me plait autant et comment j’ai réussi à me lancer dans un tel gros projet…

Beaucoup de membres dans ma famille sont artisans. Mon grand père à fabriqué des luges et des skis dans son atelier et à l’âge de 10 and il m’a apprit à utiliser des grand machines pour couper le bois. Mon père a été charpentier ainsi comme mon frère, mon oncle, ma cousine. Pendant longtemps j’ai hésité à faire menuisier, à la place je suis devenue grimpeuse.

Il y a deux ans et demie, avec Cédric on a entièrement refait un appartement de 70m2. Cédric est plombier à la base et il a l’habitude des chantiers. Moi j’ai été sa main droit pendant tout longue du chantier. Je pense que j’ai une capacité d’apprendre très vite sur le tas et je vois la suite logique des choses à faire.

Cette construction fait partie d’une des choses dont je suis le plus fière dans ma vie. C’est tellement gratifiant de créer et de voir un résultat immédiat.

Après avoir grimpé comme une dingue dans le Rätikon cet l’été, il était temps pour moi de passer à autre chose et de réellement me lancer dans le chantier.  Je ne vais pas vous raconter tout le processus car c’est une longue histoire. A la place j’aimerais dédier ce blog à tous mes amis, chers et proches qui m’ont aidé à passer cette épreuve. Parfois c’était une simple idée de quelqu’un, parfois une réelle main d’ouvre. N’importe la grandeur de l’aide, chaqu’un a apporté une touche à sa manière et mon studio est devenue un vrai oeuvre d’art en commun.

Merci, merci, merci. Vous m’avez fait le plus grand cadeau du monde avec le temps et l’énergie que vous m’avec sacrifié, avec vos inspirations et votre caractère.

Merci à Cédric Lachat pour toute l’installation sanitaire et pour la belle relation qu’on mène toujours. Merci à tes nombreux conseils techniques et à la confiance qui tu m’as donné.

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Merci à ma fidèle main droit, mon colloque Benjamin. C’était la personne qui a du supporter le plus mes petits pétage de câbles et qui a du subir mes exigences, ce qui n’est pas facile. Avec lui j’ai passé le plus du temps à bosser et à manger des sandwiches sur le toit. Benjamin va surement faire une future carrière comme plâquiste, il est fait pour ça.

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Merci à Cynthia Chow, qui a monté la barre très haute pour faire des joints de plâco parfaitement lisse. Elle n’a jamais travaillé avec une grande machine, son premier passage avec le marteau piquer était un moment inoubliable!

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Merci à Antoine Champetier de Ribes, qui a passé des nombreuses heures à gratter des murs et qui m’a souvent encouragé à bien réfléchir avant de mettre quelque chose en place.

Il m’a ouvert les yeux sur le va-et-vient et sur plein d’autre choses qui demande un peu de réflexion.

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Merci à mon frère Arno Caprez qui m’a donné des nombreuses conseils par téléphone.

Merci à Raph Foureau qui a su mettre en place les idées de mon frère et qui m’a montré comment mettre l’isolation et le par-vapeur en place.

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Merci à Marco Lippuner qui m’a mit en confiance sur mon installation électrique et qui a su m’expliquer simplement mais clairement la logique d’un courant électrique et les erreurs fatales à éviter.

Merci à Piedro dal Pra pour tirer des files électriques.

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Merci à Lea Philippon qui m’a donné l’idée de faire tout le plafond en placo.

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Merci à Fred Labreveux de m’avoir trouvé la bonne solution pour un mur humide et qui m’a montré l’application de la chaux avec des pailles.

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Merci à Marc Le Menestrel et à Mike Fuselier pour leur nombreux encouragements et merci à  Anais Verbrugge qui a eu l’idée de mettre en place une belle poutre décorative.

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Merci à Emeline Son qui a eu la belle idée de mettre une baignoire dans ma salle de bain très base. Elle a toujours été là pour prendre l’apéro en ville après les longues journées sur le chantier et a eu les oreilles ouvertes pour mes petits histoires des travaux.

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Merci à Benoit Merlin de m’avoir montré les solutions différents pour refaire un plancher et qui a eu la volonté de venir faire les mesures et qui m’a commandé le bois directement à la scierie.

Merci à Rackam et Benoit qui m’ont aidé à monter tout ce bois au cinquième étage sans ascenseur…

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Merci à Tatjana Gori qui m’a montré les étapes à faire pour mettre un parquet massiv et qui m’a vraiment impressionné par sa précision et pour son amour pour le bois.

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Merci à Jean-Marie Ducros qui m’a aidé à finir le parquet et qui a su assumer mon niveau d’exigence.

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Merci à Seb Richard qui m’a fait la peinture avec une vitesse et précision impressionnantes. J’ai vue ce que c’était d’être du métier…

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Et pour la fin j’aimerais dire merci à ma mère. Un merci qui vient du fond du coeur… ma mère est une des rares personnes qui a comprit mon mode de fonctionnement et qui a su lâcher prise.

Plus je me sens libre, plus j’ai de l’amour à donner. Un amour qui est sincère et qui ne demande aucun renvoie. Ma mère est là pour moi, à sa manière. C’est la personne la plus cool au monde que je connais.

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