I am back from five weeks in Leonidio. A rich and enlightening stay! The climbing itself is quite a treat for any style and grade level. But with sea all around, the landscapes alone are worth the trip.
I went all out in these majestic cliffs. During the winter I had felt that 2018 would be a year for climbing for me. Just climbing. So I put the cold months to good use and headed into the season in good shape. The investment is paying off. It was a real pleasure to hit the cliffs and feel the good climbing sensations coming back. Leonidio does have a lot of routes that suit my style but there is nothing quite like feeling strong and balanced. My spirit is free, my health impeccable, and my motivation for sending hard routes at its peak.
I don’t think I have ever on-sighted as many routes in the 8s in so little time before. And my legs are surely paying the price in bruises and scabs!!
I was based in Leonidio but moved quite a bit around. I went to a mythical marble cliff near Athens (both figuratively and literally…there is a temple there!). I also went down to Kyparissi a few times to check out this chill out little Ceuze.
Some partying and lending a hand to help build a new climbing shop made for quite a complete life. Everyday, the same ritual: oranges, lemons, and pomelos freshly harvested, and a bath in the cool turquoise waters. A pure life in a pristine place.
But beyond climbing, I would also like to share something that often struck me during my stay. In today’s world, it feels that we are told so often how to measure out success in life. One should have goals, study, get a job, make a good living to support a family and set a safer future. One should consume all sorts of things to take good care of oneself and the look of others.
I have always felt that I could not fit there and that my life could not fit in any of that. I never really think too hard where I would end or if my life would be called successful. Climbing led the way, from my first motion until today. I just know that I am healthy, passionate, and these are the two most precious things life gave me.
In the climbing community, I am used to hang out with people who often share some of my perspective. We have found happiness in a few simple things, like pushing our physical and mental limits. Buying a new car never quite makes the picture.
In Leonidio, I was fortunate to meet people from all walks of life who are there because they don’t fit. Or because the measures of success on the continent don’t suit them. I met people who had chosen to live in caves, to leave everything and come back to something of a natural state. Many had left overwhelmed by the pressure from their bosses, parents of peers.
Greece is often known for its somewhat chaotic organization, and of course as a European country in deep economic crisis. But it seems to me that the Greeks are not less happy in fact. Maybe because they heart is full of kindness and sharing part of common sense. I was very touched by the community of Leonidio.
Climbers or locals, everyone had a very open mind, without much of a judgment for one another. It felt like everyone had room to breath and be himself.
I spent quite some time hanging out with Germans from Berlin and my Austrian friend Bernd Schlögl. We explored the area, opened and cleaned new routes together and pushed each other in our projects. That collective energy is a real boost!
There are 4 ascents I’m proud of:
THE ultimate “Megakante” I climbed on my second go. An 8b line among the finest, above the village of Leonido.
In the Hada sector, I made the first ascent of “The Swarm”. A long and steep new 8b from Bernd, which I helped cleaning and figuring out betas.
Two lines in Elona: “Goliath” the 60m long king line of the sector. I tried that one on-sight and fell only one meter from the chain. I red-pointed that one a couple of days later. And my first 8c in 3 years called “Hanuman”. Such an excellent fight and I have to say that I missed that feeling of overcoming so much!
All in all, I’m very happy about my performances and the way I approached them.
The climbing game is so simple and I am so thankful I can find such happiness in it….;-)
One again, I’ve been travelling for 5 weeks with a rental car from Budget.
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